How do I get started? (Whatever these rappers are doing)

[TomClancyCarder]

Been interested in this for a while, is there an updated guide on how to jump into this? I see these documentaries of people making physical cards from info bought off the dark web and cashing out so I guess that's what I'm interested in

 

[KasherQuon]

That's a good question you got there!
Unfortunately I cant help you, all I can do is inform you that you are unlikely to receive free assistance.

The game is in a constant state of fluidity, methods and tricks are always changing, you have to learn how to adapt and overcome the fluidity of this game.

People don't just give out their closely guarded free money trade secrets, because their exploit will soon be patched & they'll be searching for a new method as soon as enough other people catch on.


Anyways, good luck!

Your best bet for finding a mentor would be to find a carder on here who hs retired, and regularly float them moneros for their advice.

Perhaps a retiree has aleady reached out and PM'ed you asking for a couple hundred dollars.
Scared money don't make money.

You can put in the hard time & work, or you can float a stranger crypto on a leap of faith to get ahead.
Your choice.


Oh, & to re-iterate, that stranger is not me, I don't have any current working methods to offer you.
If you trying to press sum pilla outta TDP tho I'm your retired mentor dude. lolol

 

[FendiFury]

What you are asking about is making physical clones of cards. The following is for reading and writing Magstripe data, which is the data transferred by swiping the card through a reader. When you hear someone refer to a "dump" it's a dump of the magnetic stripe data from a card. There are two other technologies in place on cards, the chip, which is known as EMV, and the non-contact NFC smart/proximity cards which operate using a 13.56Mhz RFID-based communication protocol called NFC. These are handled differently and I won't address them here.

In order to work with Magstripe data the first thing that is needed is a magnetic card reader/writer. The company Misiri makes the most popular ones, for example a Misiri RW606. As the name suggests, these can read and write the magnetic data off of and on to any card with a magnetic strip as long as the card itself is compatible with the data. More on that later.

Getting into the cards themselves, there are many types of cards with magnetic data strips. You have different materials and different sizes. The most common materials are PVC and Teslin, but there are also cards made of mixtures such as 40% Polyester. The sizes of the cards are measured in terms of the card sizes aka credential size and the thickness. While there are multiple credential sizes and 4 credit card sizes (ID-000, ID-1, ID-2, and ID-3) you just need to worry about the ISO standard credit card size of ID-1, which is also known as credential size of CR80. CR80 and CR100 are the two most common card sizes, but CR100 is more for Specialized IDs. CR80 cards are 3.37in x 2.125in (85.6mm x 53.98mm).

The thickness of the card is expressed in mils which are a thousandth of an inch. Cards that are 10-15mil are paper thin, 20-24mil cards have more flex to them, and 30mil cards are thick and durable. The most common thickness you'll see for financial cards is 30mil, or .03 inches.

As for the magnetic stripes themselves, essentially you have two types. HiCo and LoCo. These refer to the magnetic coercivity of the stripe, with high coercivity Magstripes having 4000 Oersteds (units of magnetic field strength) and low ones having 300 Oersteds. For some reason, like a bunch of heathens, CGS units of Oersteds are used with Magstripe coercivity instead of the SI units of A/mm, which would be 318.31 Amperes/mm and 23.87 Amperes/mm for Hico and LoCo respectively. LoCo data is easily damaged by magnets and repeated friction over time, whereas HiCo is much more durable and strongly written. The types of data used for each vary accordingly, with LoCo being used for things like a library card and HiCo being used for financial data. Visually, HiCo stripes are black and LoCo ones are brown.

The magnetic stripes carry data in what is known as tracks. There are up to 3 tracks on magnetic cards though the 3rd track is rarely used. Without getting too much into the encoding information, Track 1 data is higher density, containing about 3x as many bits as track 2 and is the only track that can contain the cardholder's name. Track 2 has the capacity for the ASCII range of 0x30 to 0x3f, meaning there are sixteen possible characters, 0-9 and the following six punctuations : ; < = > ? POS machines sometimes read track 1, track 2, or sometimes both tracks.

The ISO Standard for ATM and credit cards is ISO/IEC 7813, which defines both the characteristics and magnetic stripe data structure. The standardization of the magnetic stripe itself is defined in ISO/IEC 7811. For practical purposes, know that credit cards are usually PVC CR80 30mil cards with HiCo magnetic stripes and 2 tracks of data.

Now that you know all of this essentially useless background information, I'll break down an example of the general process. People buy blank CR80 30mil Hico PVC cards, then they will either use the data from an existing card they have, or load "dumped" magnetic data they purchased and write this onto the target card. Sometimes they use high quality card printing machines like a Fargo to print a design onto the card first, but this is kind of more related to IDs. They'll also use an embossing machine to stamp the desired information, like the cardholder name and numbers onto the card. There also exists fancy shit, like pnuematic hot foil stamping machines, which I think people can use to do the holographic logos and stuff, but there's no reason for anyone to get into that. Remember you can take any card and write new data onto it, including an old or existing credit card.

The basic procedure is that somewhere someone uses a "skimmer" which clandestinely records the magnetic data off a target's card. This creates a "dump" that can be either sold or used to create a cloned card. Obviously debit cards you need the pin number so this is mostly done with credit cards unless there's some crazy shit with a camera or keylogger device to capture the pin number of a debit card.

 

[p4ybr]

What you are asking about is making physical clones of cards. The following is for reading and writing Magstripe data, which is the data transferred by swiping the card through a reader. When you hear someone refer to a "dump" it's a dump of the magnetic stripe data from a card. There are two other technologies in place on cards, the chip, which is known as EMV, and the non-contact NFC smart/proximity cards which operate using a 13.56Mhz RFID-based communication protocol called NFC. These are handled differently and I won't address them here.

In order to work with Magstripe data the first thing that is needed is a magnetic card reader/writer. The company Misiri makes the most popular ones, for example a Misiri RW606. As the name suggests, these can read and write the magnetic data off of and on to any card with a magnetic strip as long as the card itself is compatible with the data. More on that later.

Getting into the cards themselves, there are many types of cards with magnetic data strips. You have different materials and different sizes. The most common materials are PVC and Teslin, but there are also cards made of mixtures such as 40% Polyester. The sizes of the cards are measured in terms of the card sizes aka credential size and the thickness. While there are multiple credential sizes and 4 credit card sizes (ID-000, ID-1, ID-2, and ID-3) you just need to worry about the ISO standard credit card size of ID-1, which is also known as credential size of CR80. CR80 and CR100 are the two most common card sizes, but CR100 is more for Specialized IDs. CR80 cards are 3.37in x 2.125in (85.6mm x 53.98mm).

The thickness of the card is expressed in mils which are a thousandth of an inch. Cards that are 10-15mil are paper thin, 20-24mil cards have more flex to them, and 30mil cards are thick and durable. The most common thickness you'll see for financial cards is 30mil, or .03 inches.

As for the magnetic stripes themselves, essentially you have two types. HiCo and LoCo. These refer to the magnetic coercivity of the stripe, with high coercivity Magstripes having 4000 Oersteds (units of magnetic field strength) and low ones having 300 Oersteds. For some reason, like a bunch of heathens, CGS units of Oersteds are used with Magstripe coercivity instead of the SI units of A/mm, which would be 318.31 Amperes/mm and 23.87 Amperes/mm for Hico and LoCo respectively. LoCo data is easily damaged by magnets and repeated friction over time, whereas HiCo is much more durable and strongly written. The types of data used for each vary accordingly, with LoCo being used for things like a library card and HiCo being used for financial data. Visually, HiCo stripes are black and LoCo ones are brown.

The magnetic stripes carry data in what is known as tracks. There are up to 3 tracks on magnetic cards though the 3rd track is rarely used. Without getting too much into the encoding information, Track 1 data is higher density, containing about 3x as many bits as track 2 and is the only track that can contain the cardholder's name. Track 2 has the capacity for the ASCII range of 0x30 to 0x3f, meaning there are sixteen possible characters, 0-9 and the following six punctuations : ; < = > ? POS machines sometimes read track 1, track 2, or sometimes both tracks.

The ISO Standard for ATM and credit cards is ISO/IEC 7813, which defines both the characteristics and magnetic stripe data structure. The standardization of the magnetic stripe itself is defined in ISO/IEC 7811. For practical purposes, know that credit cards are usually PVC CR80 30mil cards with HiCo magnetic stripes and 2 tracks of data.

Now that you know all of this essentially useless background information, I'll break down an example of the general process. People buy blank CR80 30mil Hico PVC cards, then they will either use the data from an existing card they have, or load "dumped" magnetic data they purchased and write this onto the target card. Sometimes they use high quality card printing machines like a Fargo to print a design onto the card first, but this is kind of more related to IDs. They'll also use an embossing machine to stamp the desired information, like the cardholder name and numbers onto the card. There also exists fancy shit, like pnuematic hot foil stamping machines, which I think people can use to do the holographic logos and stuff, but there's no reason for anyone to get into that. Remember you can take any card and write new data onto it, including an old or existing credit card.

The basic procedure is that somewhere someone uses a "skimmer" which clandestinely records the magnetic data off a target's card. This creates a "dump" that can be either sold or used to create a cloned card. Obviously debit cards you need the pin number so this is mostly done with credit cards unless there's some crazy shit with a camera or keylogger device to capture the pin number of a debit card.

Nice info, cleary exsplantion..thanks dude

 

[2flycardz]

That's a good question you got there!
Unfortunately I cant help you, all I can do is inform you that you are unlikely to receive free assistance.

The game is in a constant state of fluidity, methods and tricks are always changing, you have to learn how to adapt and overcome the fluidity of this game.

People don't just give out their closely guarded free money trade secrets, because their exploit will soon be patched & they'll be searching for a new method as soon as enough other people catch on.


Anyways, good luck!

Your best bet for finding a mentor would be to find a carder on here who hs retired, and regularly float them moneros for their advice.

Perhaps a retiree has aleady reached out and PM'ed you asking for a couple hundred dollars.
Scared money don't make money.

You can put in the hard time & work, or you can float a stranger crypto on a leap of faith to get ahead.
Your choice.


Oh, & to re-iterate, that stranger is not me, I don't have any current working methods to offer you.
If you trying to press sum pilla outta TDP tho I'm your retired mentor dude. lolol

I'm curious what's tdp